Someone once told me, “You’ll never get tired of Italy”, and do you know what? They’re right!
With more than 20 Italian trips under my belt, I put this to the test once again. This time we explored the Puglia region with friends, with a twist: we did it by train!
After a quick flight to Bari in southern Italy, our adventure began. First stop was Lecce for a few nights, then Monopoli for a longer stay.
Two nights in Lecce is spot on. It’s aptly named the “Florence of the South”, with lots of Baroque architecture and old-town alleyways, plus little piazzas where you can sample the local food. The city looks stunning at sunset and into the evening, when the buildings are all lit up. Top tip: book a table on the Patria Palace rooftop for the best views. Stay in or close to the old town if you can. If you have time, explore the beaches and coastal towns of Salento, especially Otranto and Gallipoli. They’re a fabulous mix.
Next we headed to Monopoli as our second base. From here the regional railway links you to all the lovely seaside towns and villages, and most are only a 5–10 minute walk from the station.
Lunch on a rooftop was our first priority. Then we wandered through whitewashed lanes, little squares and the small harbour. Polignano a Mare was next!
Allow a full day here, and pack your swimming things. The town’s biggest draw is the famous Lama Monachile beach and its limestone cliffs. While we were there, they were setting up for the Red Bull Cliff Diving World Series. It’s that good!
The beach does get busy, and it’s a bit of a trek down (about 10 minutes), but you have to be able to say you’ve done it! I’ve dipped my toes in there at least three times over the years.
If money is no object, book well ahead for the most spectacular restaurant experience in Puglia: dining inside the cliffs at Grotta Palazzese. It’s perfect for a romantic dinner. You can even stay there if it really is no object!
Next was Ostuni, the “White City”, which sits proudly above the surrounding countryside and has a fabulous central square. You’ll need a short bus ride from the station, but that’s easily arranged.
The gorgeous little town of Locorotondo is perfect for dinner in the early evening. It’s very atmospheric and easy on the eye. And if, like me, you love a dessert wine, it’s stunning!
You absolutely cannot miss the famous trulli houses. They’re best seen in and around Alberobello, a fairytale corner of Puglia, and you can even stay in one if that’s your thing.
This coastline feels a little less crowded than Cinque Terre and the Amalfi Coast on the west coast. I’d highly recommend both, but they do get far busier.
I’d aim for the shoulder season if you can (April to June, or September to October). Like many smaller places, Puglia’s towns can feel busier than usual in peak summer. Mid-September was perfect for us.
There are plenty of direct flights from the UK. Bari was the better value for us, and Brindisi is a handy alternative for Lecce.
Italy’s rail network links almost everywhere, which makes it easy to explore Puglia by train. It’s simple to navigate, spotlessly clean and mostly on time. Just remember to validate your ticket before you board, using the small machines on the platform.
I still love the freedom of a car, though. It’s a personal thing, but being able to up sticks and move on whenever I like is very handy for the impulsive me!
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